IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
 

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

3 min read
Rob Nudds

Brands

IWC

Categories

International Watch Shows

Rob Nudds

Brands

IWC

Categories

International Watch Shows

For four decades, the genius of the Kurt Klaus-designed Perpetual Calendar movement has been widely extolled. A robust, reliable, highly legible design, Klaus probably never imagined it would still from the foundations of a key calibre in the brand of IWC forty years after he first laid it out in pen and ink, and yet, it not only remains one of the brand’s most identifiable calling cards, but something of an industry standard that is admired by many other companies who likely wish they’d been the one to conceive it. 

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual CalendarIWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC

Since Klaus developed the calibre in the 1980s, it has undergone several revisions, ensuring it remains a leading light in horological circles. The moonphase complication, for example, has been refined. While it was once accurate to within one day over 122 years, it can now claim the same accuracy over 577.5 years, an excellent achievement for a calibre that remains recognisable as a descendent of the original.

The first Portugieser model to feature an iteration of the Perpetual Calendar movement debuted in 2003, with this latest update honouring the modern legacy of the line. Key to its instantly identifiable appearance is the double moon indicator, which shows the phase of Earth’s only satellitic body as it would be seen from the northern and southern hemispheres.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual CalendarIWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC

This year, IWC is rolling out four new colourways of the classic design in three case materials. In 18-carat white gold we have reference IW503703 with a  “horizon blue” dial and reference IW503704 with the “dune” dial, and in 18-carat Armor Gold® cases we have reference IW503702 with an “obsidian black” dial and reference IW503701 with a more traditional silver-plated dial. 

Crucially, IWC has taken steps to reduce the heft of this iconic model by slimming the case middle and overall watch profile (in a similar fashion as the brand applied to the basic automatic versions). Most strikingly, the brand has employed double box sapphire crystals on the front and back of the watch to further reduce the watch’s visual impact. 

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual CalendarIWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC

With such attention paid to the wearability and visual presence of the watch on the wrist, it is no wonder IWC chose to partner with Santoni when it came to the production of leather straps for these four new references. The colour of these straps has been chosen to enhance the colour of each dial. The horizon blue dial being has been paired with a light blue strap, the dune and obsidian dials are matched with black straps, and the 18-carat Armor Gold® model with the silver-plated dial is presented on a brown strap for the warmest and most inviting colourway of the four. 

These novelties are a welcome addition to the collection, but one could be forgiven for hoping we’ll see these new case refinements and delicious dial colours deployed in a more affordable stainless steel housing at some point in the not-too-distant-future so more people will be able to enjoy this horological stalwart on the wrist.

Our Choice of Straps

If you’re looking for a high-quality replacement watch strap for the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, then look no further than the WatchGecko store. Our Leuven leather straps are unique and timelessly stylish with a supple grain that feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Alternatively, the Durboy strap is a charming addition with its exotic pattern and durable quality, handmade by experienced and passionate artisans.

 
Regular price
£108.00
Regular price
Sale price
£108.00
Leuven Cavallo Flat Handmade Horse Leather Watch Strap - Cacao
Regular price
£128.00
Regular price
Sale price
£128.00
Durbuy Ostrich Leg Leather Handmade Watch Strap
Regular price
£108.00
Regular price
Sale price
£108.00
Leuven Cavallo Flat Handmade Horse Leather Watch Strap - Black

Technical Specifications: 

  • Name: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
  • Collection Reference: IW5037
  • Case Dimensions: 44.4 mm wide by 14.9 mm thick
  • Crystal: Sapphire, double box-glass, antireflective coating on both sides
  • Water Resistance: 50 metres
  • Movement: IWC-Manufactured Automatic Calibre 52616, with a 7-day power-reserve

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Rob Nudds

About the Author: Rob Nudds

Rob started working in the watch industry for the Signet Group, aged 17. Following university, he undertook the WOSTEP course at the British School of Watchmaking, developing a keen interest in watchmaking theory. After graduating, he worked primarily for Omega and Bremont before leaving the bench in 2015 to become Head of Sales for NOMOS Glashütte in the UK. After three years of managing an international retail network that grew to encompass 17 countries, he began writing full-time.

Since then, he has written for aBlogtoWatch, Fratello, Time & Tide, Grail Watch, SJX, Get Bezel, Borro Blog, Jomashop, Bob's Watches, Skolorr, Oracle Time, and Revolution USA.

He currently co-hosts The Real Time Show Podcast (www.therealtime.show) with his friend and long-time collaborator, Alon Ben Joseph of Ace Jewelers, Amsterdam, as well as working with several brands as a consultant in the fields of brand building, product development, global retail strategy, and communications. Follow him on Instagram @robnudds.

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